Raffia is a natural fiber derived from Raffia Palms, which grow in tropical Africa and Madagascar. The long palm leaves are harvested, dried, and then separated into long strips. It is used worldwide in weaving, basket-making, mat-making, and in bonsai. It has several interesting characteristics: it does not shrink when wet, and has enormous strength in the longitudinal (along the fiber) direction.

Raffia is available in a natural light brown color, as well as various dyed colors, and can be purchased at craft stores, larger nurseries which carry gardening or craft types of "accessories", and knowledgeable bonsai shops. Raffia is packaged as a "bulk bundles" which are tied at one end.

Raffia is used in bonsai primarily for the great strength it possesses. For this reason it makes a perfect "second skin" for protection of a tree where work is being done. The trick is knowing how to apply raffia to get the best results.

• Raffia can prevent cracking or splitting of bark or cambium. It can also prevent wire from cutting into a thin-barked branch which is being bent.
• Raffia is used in many bonsai techniques:
• Trunk-splitting, where raffia binds up each side of the trunk until healing has progressed;
• Protection and preservation of valuable aged bark (as on an old pine), when bending or cutting needs to be done on that area;
• Protection of thin or sensitive bark or cambium, as on a Maple or Azalea, again where bending or cutting needs to be done;
• Twisting of a branch or trunk to bring branches or deadwood around to the desired position.
• Other minor operations and techniques, like grafting and root work.

Raffia Application: Tree Preparation

The work areas which are to be wrapped should be misted, so the moisture in the raffia is not immediately sucked away by a dry trunk or branch. Any foliage in the wrap area should be wrapped in a cloth, which prevents the raffia from getting caught on foliage during application.

Raffia Application: Raffia Preparation

• Pull 5 to 7 strips away from the main raffia "bundle". Strips should be at least 1 meter long
• Tie the strips at one end into a small knot, making a mini-bundle;
• Soak the raffia mini-bundles in warm water for about 30 minutes prior to use. Natural-colored raffia will turn almost translucent when it is ready for use

Raffia Application: 1st Method

• Apply raffia in the same direction in which wire is to be applied;

• The amount of raffia needed depends on several things: how heavy the branch or trunk is, in the work area, and the gauge of the wire to be applied.

For relatively light to medium weight wire, only a single layer of raffia will be needed. For heavy branches or trunk work, (2) layers of raffia, or layering of raffia-wire-raffia will be needed.

• Extract the raffia mini-bundles from the water, and gently flatten out the mini-bundle between fingers, so it resembles a long flat bandage
• Start winding the raffia below the lowest point where wire is to be applied. Raffia should always extend beyond the area to be wired
• Wind the raffia evenly and very tightly, overlapping the previous loop by ½; i.e. if the flattened width of the raffia is 1 inch when applied, overlap the next loop by ½ inch
• As each loop is applied, it is important to flatten out the mini-bundle with your fingers, so the "bandage" width is consistent

As you use up the raffia mini-bundle, and have maybe 2 or 3 loops (of length) left, choose another mini-bundle from the soaking bucket. Lay the knotted end across the raffia already on the tree, at a similar angle to the raffia already applied, but so that the last 2 loops of the previous bundle can be laid over the new bundle. Continue wrapping the last loops over the new bundle of raffia. When the last loop is on, start applying the new bundle in loops over the area already wrapped. This overlapping technique, with the outer (newer) layer secured to the inner raffia by trapping the knot of the new layer and overlapping with at least 2 loops, makes the whole wrap "continuous". This also keeps the knots on the outside of the wraps.

Raffia Application: Second Method

This method has an advantage in that no knots are tied at one end of the raffia strips being applied. The next strings of raffia to be added to existing wraps are added in a way which adds strength to the total wrap, and helps prevent raffia unwinding should the knots of 1st method be damaged or rot.

• Apply 1st wrap as described in 1st Method;
• Lay the next strings of raffia over the existing wrap strings, as shown in (Figure 1) 
• Make a half Granny knot by passing the new strands over and back under the existing strands, as shown in (Figure 2) and (Figure 3). Pull the knot tight, and continue wrapping with the new strands. Allow the ends of the old strands to wrap under the new strands as you wind the raffia.

This alternate method will give you a smooth surface over the complete wrap, which also has the advantage of "looking better".

Finishing The End:

When the whole area to be protected is wrapped, separate out equal number of strands of raffia, twist back on themselves several times (for strength), and wrap ½ in the opposite direction, while the other ½ continues in the main direction.

Take several wraps, then tie the ends of each half tightly to each other. Finally, dress the ends with scissors, so very little of the ends show.

Raffia Application: Heavy Bending

When attempting to bend large branches or a trunk, additional layers need to be added. One technique involves raffia-wire-raffia:

Put on first layer of raffia, as described above;

• On the side of the work which will be the outside of the bend, position a large-gauge copper wire (say #6, #8, or #10), and secure it in place ateach end with small strips of raffia. The wire should extend out perhaps 1 inch at both ends of raffia;
• Add a second layer of raffia, wound tightly over the wire and the first layer of raffia;
• Bend the extending wire ends back over the raffia layer, so the wire is held in place, relative to the raffia.

This technique adds additional strength to the "skin", and the copper wire prevents the bark on the outside of the bend from splitting, which could be deadly to that section of the tree.

In cases of very heavy wood, additional heavy gauge wire strips may be added along the sides of the bend area, to prevent bark or cambium buckling outward.

Raffia Removal:

Raffia will shrink slightly when it dries, so if it was wrapped tightly when applied, it will stay very tight on the tree. This tightness will cause trouble if the raffia must be removed (before it decomposes) by adhering to the old bark it is supposed to protect. I have seen a number of articles which suggest cutting off the raffia. These are mostly correct, with the exception of one small effect of cutting…the tension spring-back. This happens when the raffia, which is very tight, is suddenly cut. The ends at the cut point loose tension rapidly, so fly apart from each other, dragging any bark bits along which happen to be underneath or in the way.

A way around this problem is to spray the area with lukewarm water, so the raffia is as it was when applied. It will give up some of its’ tension, and can then be easily cut away with no or minimal damage to the underlying bark. Taking care where the raffia is cut also helps. For instance, cut it under the branch, where any small damage is not normally visible.

Raffia Substitutes:

Many folks do not like all the mess associated with raffia. For those folks there are other materials which require no preparation or soaking.

Vet-Wrap is a 4 inch wide wound dressing or wrap designed for use on larger animals. For small jobs, the wrap width must be cut down to the job size. It is advertised as "sticking only to itself", so should not pull away old bark or foliage when removed. The caveat here is that the Vet-Wrap has a somewhat rough surface, so my sense is that it would work fine as a "raffia sub" on smooth bark, but would cause bark "pull-away" on craggy old bark, as exists on older pines. The best medicine here is to try it on a discarded branch which has bark similar to the piece to be worked, and see how it adheres and removes…this is the real proof of the pudding! Vet-Wrap is available in (11) colors. Vet-Wrap will handle 8 pounds tensile strength.

Co-Flex is another product which is advertised as "adhereing only to itself", so the same caveat from Vet-Wrap applies here…try it on a discarded branch first. It comes in widths from 1 to 6 inches, and (13) colors, but should be used for smaller jobs which do not require a lot of tension on a branch, as it is designed to handle 8 pounds tensile strength.

Self-amalgamating rubber tape is a butyl rubber tape which has no adhesive system. To activate the tape needs to be stretched out to 150% to 200% of its’ original length and wrapped on the desired work area. The wrapped tape will form a solid piece of rubber in about 30 minutes. As this "curing" process happens, the rubber shrinks perhaps 3-5%, forming a water-tight seal, so for this reason this tape, if used, should not be kept long on a work area. Here again, common sense will tell you that stretching this material over smooth bark should not cause problems, but if it is stretched over fragile old pine bark, you can count on that new fashionable "naked tree" look!

Application Tips:

It pays to study the proposed application for raffia, or a substitute, to understand exactly how the "skin" needs to be applied.

This study should include:

• The direction in which to wrap;
• How to "wrap around" any deadwood, branches, or buds which exist along the work area, but which are themselves not involved in the bending process;
• Any cut areas, where the edge of bark or cambium is open and exposed.

For instance, suppose a trunk has been split. There are (4) open exposed cambium edges. How should raffia be wrapped over these areas, and why is there a problem?

The answer lies in the understanding of wrapping, and the tension it brings to the bark and cambium below.

The proper wrapping direction is shown by the inner-curving arrows. If the wrap direction is opposite, and the wrapping is pulled tight, it will pull the cambium and bark back away from the underlying heartwood, causing further damage to the split area.

Wrapping this application is tricky, but "do-able".

Start with a larger than normal bundle of raffia, maybe 8-10 pieces. Split the bundle and start wrapping each half in opposite directions, on one of the split trunks.

On the first wrap over the cut area #1, in the arrow direction, hold the raffia once wrapped, but do not continue over cut #4. Wrap in the other half of the bundle over #4 cut, and over the raffia on #1 cut. The raffia first over cut #1 can now be wrapped over the raffia on cut #4.

This method is more complex, but makes a much neater job, and allows the splits to heal properly. You will wind up with smaller strands of raffia criss-crossing over the split area. Finish the raffia ends as described above.

Shown below is a small Taxus, on which the right-side branch was split away from the deadwood, both to give more prominence to the deadwood, and to lower the branch.

This is the tree just after splitting:

The lower right branch was gently pried away from the deadwood using soft chopsticks.

Raffia and raffia substitutes can help minimize damage to any tree where bending is attempted, be it minor or major bending.

As with any material, it can be used wisely, with good results, or sloppily, and you know what results that will yield!

After studying bonsai for many, many years, it is my feeling that one should master materials, tools, and techniques which help the artist to better his / her technique.

A well-done bonsai is always so pleasing to the eye, and satisfying to the intellect, particularly when one knows the background of, and all the work put into that special tree!